Very few wines sell out so quickly that there is a drought of several months before the next vintage comes on stream. Even fewer achieve this in their debut vintage. And I guess if I were to talk about ‘cult’ wines your mind would dart to California, Burgundy, the Tuscan coast and Pomerol and probably dozen or more places before it considered heading south to the Cape. But Cartology began to attract high scores and heady tasting notes from the moment of its first release. I remember it being whispered about in tasting rooms, becoming a touchstone of in-the-know-one-upmanship… It has an enchanting taste, combining the memory of waxy blossom, beeswax, quince, dried grass, orange and aniseed, but what’s really pleasing is the way its flavours change, kaleidoscoping in and out and lingering for an age in your mouth.