And what of sheer, instinctive talent? (Sadly, one can also see its direct opposite now and then.) Again, it’s in no short supply amongst the others, but I have never felt quite so convinced of it as with Chris Alheit. He demonstrates other vital criteria of great winemaking – hard work, awareness of the unity of vineyards and cellar, and infinite (and highly intelligent and well-informed) attention to detail. But somehow he has always seemed to me to have a magical touch, an unequalled flair and instinct.